Friday, July 1, 2011

Tim's shirt/jacket

Here is the shirt/jacket thingy that I made for Tim for a birthday gift... it is very similar to Sam's here, but using a grey/beige, thin but warm, corduroy and a (leftover) contrasting dark blue/grey cotton linen for the lining of each of the collar stand, yoke, welt pockets and pocket flaps. 
I used the same ol' Burda 7767 that is now my standby go-to men's button-up shirt pattern, almost lost count of the number of times I've used it now  (just went back and checked... 14 times!)  Hehe, Myrna suggested I do an overview of different ways in which I've used the same pattern to get different garments, and I think this pattern might be a prime candidate, along with my all-time favourite Vogue 7303... but not until I've given this shirt/jacket thing its very own post here...
Variations to the pattern; 
well, apart from the obvious customised fitting to Tim's measurements modifications I implemented the following:
1.  lengthened the fronts and back by about 6-7cm, to get a more coat or jacket like effect and curved the hemline up to each of the side seams to get that shirt-tail effect both front and back...
2. added two breast pockets with curved flaps
3. added two of those double pockets at hip height... pockets that are separately a welt pocket and are also a patch pocket (you can tell, I was pretty thrilled with how these turned out on Sam's jacket and Tim thought they were tres cool as well, so I just had to put them on his too!)  my tutorial for doing these double pockets is here.
4. used snaps throughout in lieu of buttons.  
Little anecdote; I had nearly finished this jacket - bar putting the snaps in, and by this time Tim knew very well that I was making this for him (well, I do make them something for each of their birthdays.... he was expecting it) and he wanted to wear it out to a friend's place that night.  Of course the snaps seems like the easy quick bit and I'm like, oh hang on, shouldn't take more than twenty minutes.  Like, well over an hour later....  hehe, SO putting in snaps does take a fair bit of time, if you are trying to be careful about placement that is and not just flying along recklessly... but he did get to wear it out, even if he was (fashionably) late!
In an unthinking moment, I selected contrasting thread to topstitch, that matched the tobacco brown snaps exactly.  Bad idea!  I adore corduroy and have used it countless times, but looking back I have always selected matching topstitching thread.  In hindsight I can see the wisdom of that (even though it was ignorant wisdom...); corduroy by its very nature does not take super well to military-precisioned topstitching, all those furry velvety little ridges, bless them, are an enemy to the topstitching perfectionist.  Moral of the story; always, but always go with matching topstitching thread on corduroy, unless uneven lines are not going to send you spare.  The good news is that Tim, being an easy-going bloke, is OK with it.  It is just something to bother me whenever I have occasion to, say, hang it up on the line and get to see those slightly-darker-therefore-blindingly-obvious wonky lines all over again (grrr...)
At left; contrasting lining: at right; the double welt/patch pockets at hip level, complete with hideous topstitching
Because of the intensity that was me-made June, it may appear I haven't done much sewing in the last month... actually I have still been sewing and have produced some new things.  For some reason I felt I didn't want to do postings of any new stuff during that month, so I have kept some things back.  Well, OK I did reveal some new things, a little grey top, and the new scarf... oh, OK then.  There was a smattering of minor-league new stuff, hehe.  And some old stuff that was discovered in my winter sort-out.  But, back to the subject, I do have some new creations to reveal.  Just have to muster some enthusiasm to get back in front of the camera again... you understand.

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